这次,更深入理解时尚不只是一个消费性的名词,更多的是设计师对作品的投入、作品精神美学的延展!

 

Hello everyone! Have you had the problem browsing through all social media during fashion week, still don't know which show is the best, or what designer should keep your eyes on? Here you go! Alex Style Diaries has already selected 10 best  15 AW fashion show from 4 cities! Please stay tuned to my blog to have latest fashion news.

女人迷的读者你好,最近时尚资讯整个爆炸,从 instagram 到 Facebook 看完一大堆图片,却不知道到底时装周重点在哪,哪些设计师应该需要关注?于是我决定在自己部落格Alex Style Diaries和女人迷整理秀场重点,从纽约开始报导四大时装周的重点,让你轻松了解潮流趋势。(自己常常被这些资讯淹没,于是用以前在杂志的方式看完所有时装秀图片,找寻每个城市最棒的10场秀给妳)

1. 3.1 Philip Lim

Philip Lim always knows how to turn creative ideas into wearable pieces! This collection is full of plaids and sporty details like bomber jacket and high-waist pants. I especially love the different layers he used to make the whole outfit outstanding but still stay clean.

前几年很红的 Philip Lim 这几年虽然声势没有 Alexander Wang 这么浩大,但我还是很爱他的设计,今年秋冬他用了很多格纹,运动风外套,皮革等元素妆点整个系列,很厉害的是他用很多混搭丰富整体视觉,却又不显得杂乱,这真的是需要好功夫才能达到的。(推荐阅读:

2. BOSS

The first coat worn by Edie immediately caught my attention with its sharp outline and bold red. There aren't lots of colors this season, only with some red and gray. With Jason's precise cut on every pieces and gorgeous princess line, Boss, this German lady, finally found her style.

BOSS 最近越来越好看,吴季刚的剪裁精准到不行,一开场得大衣就深得我心,整季的颜色用的不多,主要是灰蓝等深色,再用红色点缀,俐落简洁的线条让 BOSS 这个德国女郎再度主宰时尚圈(现实德国已经快主宰欧洲了XD)

3.Opening Ceremony

Opening Ceremony always excites me not only the things they select, but also the things they design! Maybe because they don't have brand boundaries as other brands, OC perfectly show the sporty chic with lots of creative items like KODAK sweatshirt.(I want it!)

OC 一直是纽约潮人们必去的逛街地(我好想去),但最近发现他们其实不只东西选得好,设计更是棒。可能因为没有像其他大牌子有品牌包袱,他们每一季的表现都不赖,这次用了很多柯达底片的图腾和炫丽印花,让我好想直奔纽约买下他们!(你会喜欢:

4.Thakoon

I have loved Thakoon's design for a long time for smooth outline. This collection used a lot of fur and geometric pattern. Especially love how he mixed all materials like furs in a harmonious and stylish way.

我一直很喜欢 Thakoon 这位亚裔设计师,算是纽约时装周的华裔先锋,他的设计一直是线条流畅,细节饶富巧思,这次用了很多皮草(希望是假的不伤动物),和几何图型,很喜欢他用色块图腾的方式,让整体看起来活泼却又不会很杂乱。

5.Coach

Thanks to Stuart Vevers, Coach has somehow turned her image from cheap outlet brand to a cool designer brand loved by hipsters. They seem to launch these fur biker jacket every season(but still with little difference), and make bags & clothes chic but also affordable for young girls. 

如果说 COACH 是穿着 PRADA 的恶魔里的小安,那 Stuart 应该就是里面的奈吉把她彻底改头换面,从一个全身充满 LOGO 俗女到个性酷女孩!这几季都让我激赏,尤其喜欢他们出的羊皮骑士外套,看起来就很实穿,这季的拼色用法更让外套有趣十足!(他们家纯皮的包也好好看)(延伸阅读:

6.EDUN

I want to rip out all the coats from the models and take them home!! They are so f**king GORGEOUS!! Edun made coat with simple outline but elaborate details. Like the seams, the sewing, and Non-symmetrical hoods tooth, they all make new statement of classic winter item "coat."

我看完这次 EDUN 超想把模特儿身上的外套通通拔下来带走!每件大衣搭配自然肩线剪裁,完美符合 model 肩型垂坠下来,搭配有趣的细结像是车线,不对称千鸟纹到不收边,把秋冬每家都有的大衣变得趣味无比!

7.BCBGMAXAZRIA

BCBG has been popular by office ladies with the modern design and adorable price. This season, BCBG tried to make them to the next level. Puffy knitwear with flounce beneath, or white fringe sporty dress, they make women powerful but still graceful.

BCBG 不用多说,一样实穿却又美丽无比,上班女还应该要入手的就是他们家的衣服啊!(推荐阅读:

8.Proenza Schouler

PS this time is like a hair dresser who renew every piece's tradition structure and build it to a higher level. No matter the cut of coat collar, non-symmetrical holes of knitwear, or the cow spot, they all perfectly make PS stand out again.

PS 不只是包包有名,他们家服装一直是很有水准的,这次把传统服饰的轮廓拆解后重新组合,提升整体趣味度,不管是乳牛花纹到领口不对称裁剪大衣,每一件都让PS再次成为纽约时装周焦点。 (同场加映:

9.Narciso Rodriguez

The silhouette of Narciso clothes is just like the sea breeze from Hampton, so smooth and streaming(Even the coat!). Interesting part is even he uses a lot of pastel colors, models still look sharp and powerful with these gorgeous clothes.

这一季的 Narciso 也是我的心头好(要是我是女生一定会破产甚么都想买XD),剪裁流畅到每件衣服都像微风般柔美飘逸(连大衣都能飘逸)。有趣的是即使他调了很多粉色,因为线条简单,model 看起来依旧是干练聪明,却又充满女性魅力。

10.Rodarte

I have noticed Rodarte a lot since they won the CFDA around 2006.(I was 14!) They always have cool ideas and turn them into marvelous pieces. The collections is a bit retro(Look at the pattern of blazer), a bit rock(leather pants&sequins), and a bit fairy tale(chiffon dresses.) Well, overall Rodarte wake up those little girls in our mind who wanted to try every style just for fun.

最后用我很早就在关注的 Rodarte 姐妹花作结尾,她们两总能把天马行空的想法化成翩翩衣裳,很喜欢他们年轻化的设计细节又精致无比,这次风格很多元,从摇滚的皮裤亮片,复古的印花西外,到童话般的洋装,每件都要唤醒大家心目中的小女孩,那个愿意在衣橱里尝试各式各样的造型,只为自己开心。