野村寿司位于仁爱圆环附近的小巷子里,静谧地等待着食客的光临。这间仅有 12 张座席的寿司吧才开张一个月,而撑起整个场面的是野村裕二,一位看似年轻,却已有15年的料理资历的寿司师傅。我对台北不算太熟悉,
Behind the Ren Ai circle and very close to the stylish a poet, Nomura Sushi quietly sits. Opened just a month ago, this 12-seat sushi bar is headed up by Nomura Yuji 野村裕二, a young but experienced sushi chef who has been in the trade for over 15 years. I’m not too familiar with the dining scene in Taipei, but apparently Nomura-san has quite a loyal following from his days at the wildly popular “No Sushi 野寿司”. Well then, let’s take a look at he’s got.
野村寿司
Nomura
野村寿司半掩的木门,似乎招着手请路人进去一探究竟。不过你如果真的是路过进去,估计是坐不到位子的-还是事前预约吧。
A half-opened wooden gate beckons passerby, but as Nomura Sushi is almost always fully booked, you won’t have much luck as a walk-in guest. Reservations highly recommended.
木门
Wooden Gate
我们被领到一排由原木所打造的平坦简洁的寿司吧前。温暖的灯光,小野丽莎轻柔的歌声,热茶,热手巾,一切都令人感到愉悦。
Upon entering, we were seated at a plain, spotlessly clean sushi bar built from pristine wood. Warm lighting,Ono Lisa in the air, hot tea, warm towels…instant good feeling.
寿司吧台
Sushi Bar
寿司吧台
Sushi Bar
野村寿司的晚餐从 2500 台币起跳。相较之下,
While dinner at Nomura costs at least 2500 NTD (and up to 3300+ NTD depending on what you order), lunch is an excellent deal at only 1200 NTD.
开胃菜:细切萝卜佐吻仔鱼
Appetizer: grated daikon with dried baby fish
清爽的腌萝卜
Marinated daikon
回溯日本江户时代,沿街贩卖寿司的寿司师傅们在没有冷冻设备的情况下,会先将鱼料预先处理 -或炖煮、或腌渍 -以延长鱼料的保存时间。野村寿司提供的正是这种江户前寿司。
Nomura-san serves Edomae sushi (江户前寿司), which, if simply put, is characterized by the use of pre-seasoned fish. Back in the days, sushi were sold on streets by stands when there were no refrigerators, and in order to achieve a longer shelf life, the fish were simmered in broth, immersed in soy sauce, or cured with salt and vinegar. For more details, click here.
野村裕二
Nomura Yuji
我们当日的寿司飨宴由一贯金目鲷握寿司揭开序幕。我之前尝过的金目鲷都是以微炙的方法呈现,而野村师傅则仅仅刷上一抹酱油而已。这种单纯的料理手法,很新鲜,很
The royal procession of Edomae sushi commenced with kinmedai 金目鲷 (golden eye seabream). I’ve only had it 炙り(aburi, or partially grilled), and was delighted to find its clean, sweet taste when left unadorned with the exception of a brushstroke of soy sauce.
金目鲷
Kinmedai
鰶鱼(小肌)的鱼肉经过腌制后带着强烈而开胃的醋味,
Kohada 小肌 (a type of herring) made quite an impression. The fish itself was fairly strong with a piquant smack of vinegar, but was nicely balanced by a sprinkle of yuzu peel. Like.
小肌
Kohada
比目鱼。
Next up, a piece of hirame 比目鱼 (fluke/summer flounder).
比目鱼
Hirame
鲔鱼大腹肉,这个永远令人陶醉的食材,应该不需要多作介绍了吧?值得一提的是野村师傅在鱼面上画上了细细几刀,
Otoro 大トロ (fatty tuna), the all-time crowd-pleaser, needs no further introduction. I did find it interesting that Nomura-san made careful incisions on the fish, presumably to let the soy sauce really sink in – something I had not seen before.
大トロ
Otoro
接下来是盖着紫苏叶,鲜甜又黏滑的白虾。
Then, a sweet and sticky shiroebi 白虾 (white shrimp) topped with shiso leaf.
白虾
Shiroebi
铁火卷 (鲔鱼卷)。
Tekkamaki 鉄火巻き (tuna roll), not my usual favorite.
鉄火巻き
Tekkamaki
接着来的是爽脆的青柳贝, 相当令人满意的口感。
Following that, a big and crunchy piece of aoyagi 青柳 (round clam) made a satisfying mouthful.
青柳
Aoyagi
赤鯥,除了它口感非常柔软外,没有太多印象。
I don’t remember much about the akamutsu 赤むつ (deep sea grouper) other than its very soft flesh.
赤鯥
Akamutsu
出乎意料之外,最让我惊艳的居然是这一碗迷你鲑鱼卵井。
What blew me away, surprisingly, was a tiny bowl of warm sushi rice topped with fresh ikura いくら. I’m used to eating the marinated, overly salty kind, and was quite enamored with this glistening heap of fresh salmon roe, each a little pop of flavor burst.
鲑鱼卵
Ikura
鲑鱼卵
Ikura
军舰卷上堆满慷慨份量的海胆,不用多说了。
Uni 海胆 (sea urchin), generously piled up in a 军舰巻き (gunkanmaki). No need to say more.
海胆军舰卷
Uni
河童卷 (小黄瓜卷) 包着小黄瓜丝、
Kappamaki カッパ巻き (cucumber roll) with thin slices of cucumber, a bit of shiso and unknown white fish.
河童卷
Kappamaki
野村师傅招待的综合鱼料伴青葱姜末军舰卷。
An extra mixed fish gunkanmaki topped with fresh scallions and sliced ginger, courtesy of Nomura-san.
军舰巻
Mixed fish gunkanmaki
最后是柔嫩、松软的星鳗。
Lastly, a meticulously prepared anago 穴子 (conger eel). Tender, fluffy.
星鳗
Anago
这碗味增汤,看似简单,却富含虾子的鲜味。
A bowl of miso soup, naturally sweet from thoroughly cooked shrimps.
味增汤
Miso soup
餐后甜点是手工黑糖豆花。
The meal ended with a simple housemade bean curd with brown sugar.
手工黑糖豆花
Bean curd with brown sugar
野村师傅给人的第一印象或许很安静,但一聊开,
A few more words on Nomura-san. He may seem quiet at first, but if you engage him, he will tell you everything he can about what you are eating. The catch – he can’t communicate much in Chinese and English, so this will only work for those who can speak Japanese.
野村师傅
Nomura-san at work
餐后,野村师傅向我们展示了他和餐厅老板们特别日本小豆岛带回来了特选酱油。这种为了找到完美食材而不惜踏遍各地的努力精神,让我想起了料理
Nomura-san showed us bottles of artisanal soy sauce his team procured from 小豆岛 (Shodoshima), just one of the many examples of how he attempts to carefully select everything used in the restaurant. If you have seen episodes of どっちの料理ショー (one of my all time favorite TV shows), it won’t be difficult for you to conjure up images of obsessed men roaming the globe in order to find the single most premium ingredient for a particular dish.
小豆岛酱油
Soy Sauce
野村师傅也向我们展示了一些他为晚餐所准备的高级食材,看样子我得在下次去台北的时候才有机会尝到了。
Nomura-san also showed us some ingredients he will use for dinner. Given that dinner sets are way pricier than lunch sets, I’m guessing he saves the real good stuff till after dark. I will have to find out on another trip to Taipei.
晚餐食材
What's for dinner?
虽然我在离开野村寿司时,没有如我离开上海的 Sushi Oyama 那么感动,不过想想…Sushi Oyama 一餐是800元人民币 (3600台币) 的价位,
hough I did not leave Nomura Sushi in the same blissful state as I left Sushi Oyama, I reminded myself that a meal there would’ve costed at least 800 RMB (3600 NTD), whereas our lunch at Nomura was only 1200 NTD. Value for money? Absolutely.
野村寿司
地址:台北市安和路一段78巷34号
电话:02-2755-6587
营业时间:12:00~2:00pm, 6:00pm~9:00pm (周一休)
价位:[午餐] 1200 NTD/套, [晚餐] 2500~3300+ NTD/套
造访日期:2011-10-04