Caprice 有名到几乎不需要我再多做介绍。这家全香港唯一荣获米其林三星的法国餐厅，在主厨 Vincent Thierry (之前任职于巴黎 Four Seasons Hôtel George V 的 Le Cinq 餐厅) 所带领下，将当地和从法国空运来的食材进行搭配，创造出一道道美丽的料理。餐厅装潢大量的使用金色和特别定制的施华洛世奇水晶吊灯，而透过巨大落地窗望出去便可看到维多利亚港的壮丽风景。华丽，却不失优雅，连空气的味道都很不一样。
Caprice barely needs an introduction. The only French restaurant in Hong Kong with three Michelin stars, Caprice is led by Chef Vincent Thierry (ex-Le Cinq of Four Seasons Hôtel George V, Paris), who orchestrates a contemporary French menu around seasonal and imported ingredients, many air-flown in from France. All these takes place in surroundings of opulent gold, custom-made Swarovski crystal chandeliers, floor-to-ceiling windows, a spectacular vista of the Victoria Harbour, and a chandeliered open-kitchen as the focal point. Even the air smells elegant.
值得一提的是 Caprice 的餐厅领班、糕点厨师和调酒师都是从 Le Cinq 请过来的，绝对是个了不起的阵容。
It is also worth mentioning that the maître d’, pastry chef and sommelier all have Le Cinq on their résumés. An impressive lineup, for sure.
午间套餐可选择 460 港币的两菜套餐和 520 港币的三菜套餐，均另加 10% 的服务费。第一次来这里用餐的我决定完全听从服务生的建议，接下来就等着吃喽。
Lunch sets at Caprice are priced at 460HKD for two courses and 520HKD for three with an additional 10% service charge. As it was my first visit to Caprice, I simply took the waiter’s recommendations. No fuss.
首先来了一篮面包，搭配含盐和无盐的两种 Bordier奶油 。这个手工制作的顶级奶油以诺曼底和布列塔尼有机牧场出产的牛奶为原料而制成，吃起来有点微酸，口感极其幼滑。据 Bordier 自己说，享用这些黄油的最佳方式是切一小块奶油放在面包上 － 或刀尖、指尖和叉尖上 － 然后轻柔的将奶油滑到舌头上。它会立刻开始融化，而其在嘴里形成的澎湃美味会让你想起春日的花朵，温暖的阳光，从海上吹来的风和微烤过的榛果…
First arrived a selection of breads, served with salted and unsalted Bordier butter. This hand-churned, ultra premium butter is made with cream from the milk of cows that graze on organic farms in Normandy and Brittany. The result? A slightly sour and supremely creamy butter. The best way to enjoy this butter, according to Bordier himself, is to “place a small chunk on a piece of bread – or on the tip of a knife, finger or fork – and slip it gently onto the tongue. There, it begins to melt immediately, flooding the mouth with flavors that evoke spring flowers, warm sun, sea air and lightly toasted hazelnuts.” Mmm…this is not the time to be counting calories.
Of course I had to try all four types of bread: sesame, olive, whole wheat, and baguette – the first and the last were my favorites.
开胃小点是装在鸡蛋壳里的慢煮鹌鹑蛋和栗子奶油 (poached quail egg with chestnut cream)，是一道相当精致的开始。
The amuse bouche, poached quail egg with chestnut cream nestled within an egg shell, was a dainty start.
我们的前菜之一是法国珍珠鸡洋蓟鹅肝冻批拌核桃汁 (Free Range Chicken, Foie Gras and Artichoke Terrine in Walnut Vinnaigrette)，是一道摆盘十分漂亮的料理。鸡肉，鹅肝，和朝鲜蓟由鸡肉冻拼成九宫格，四周环绕着一圈碎核桃和小蘑菇。这道菜口感很清爽，味道似乎欠缺了些什麽，不过鸡肉细致的肉质相当令人惊艳。后来上网一查才发现 Caprice 选用的是进口 Bresse 鸡肉，这个品种源于法国罗纳-阿尔卑斯 (Rhône-Alpes ) 领域的 Bresse 地区，只在城市周围指定的小农场按照严格的标准饲养。原来如此！
Our first course, Free Range Chicken, Foie Gras and Artichoke Terrine in Walnut Vinnaigrette, came beautifully plated. Cubes of chicken, foie gras, and artichoke were pieced together with chicken stock jelly, wrapped around with leek, then encircled by a delicate mix of walnuts and mushrooms. Clean taste, but it seemed to be missing something. I was, however, very impressed by the chicken, and later found out that Caprice imports the highly sought after Bresse chicken. This breed originates from the Bresse area of the Rhône-Alpes region of France and is reared to exacting standards by small farms in a small designated area around the city. The quality is easily discernible – an inimitable gamey flavor with fine, tender flesh.
另一到前菜是法式海鲜浓汤拌萝卜粒配阿拉斯加蟹肉云呑 (Shellfish Bisque, Fondant Daikon and Alaskan King Crab Ravioli)。这道汤品有着浓郁的海洋风味，但味道稍微偏咸，盖过了阿拉斯加帝王蟹馄饨的细致风味，有些可惜。
Our other first course was Shellfish Bisque, Fondant Daikon and Alaskan King Crab Ravioli. The bisque, though rich with flavors of the ocean, was slightly on the salty side and drowned the subtle taste of the Alaskan king crab ravioli.
主菜之一是法式薯茸烩野猪拌芹菜头茸，红莓酱配烧汁 (Wild Boar Parmentier, Celery Root Mash and Cranberry Jam in Natural Jus)。野猪肉的口感比人工饲养的猪更为精瘦，颜色也更深更红，味道则介于鹿肉和牛肉之间。虽然有点过咸，不过这道菜的口感和味道都很有层次 － 尤其出色的是香脆的面包酥和酸甜的蔓越莓果酱，它们让这道菜变得非常鲜活有趣。
For main course, we first tried Wild Boar Parmentier, Celery Root Mash and Cranberry Jam in Natural Jus. Wild boar meat is leaner and in a deeper red than domestic pork, and tastes somewhat like a cross between venison and beef. Though too salty (again), this was a very nice dish with dynamic layers of textures and flavors – the crunchy croutons and tangy cranberry jam especially brought the dish alive.
另一道主菜是法式煎大虾拌甘笋茸，芝麻脆批拌特式香料汁 (Tiger Prawns a la Plancha, Carrot Puree, Sesame Pastilla and Sweet Spice Infusion )。不错，但不是特别令人印象深刻。
Our other main course, Tiger Prawns a la Plancha, Carrot Puree, Sesame Pastilla and Sweet Spice Infusion, was pleasant but less memorable.
甜点，我们选择了脆香胡桃梨茸泡芙伴榛子汁 (Pecan Nut Profiteroles, Quince and Hazelnut )。松脆的泡芙中填满了木瓜冰霜，顶着一团榛子奶油和香脆的胡桃，最后以点榛子酱做点缀。这道甜点分量不大而且味道轻盈，却让人很有满足感。
For desserts, Pecan Nut Profiteroles, Quince and Hazelnut. Airy and crispy puff pastries were filled with quince sorbet, topped withhazelnut cream and a crunchy pecan, then drizzled with hazelnut sauce. Light, yet perfectly satisfying.
最后来一杯咖啡和 petit fours 小点心。焦糖糖果和玛德琳柠檬小蛋糕都非常好吃。
We finished the meal with a cup of coffee and petit fours, the most memorable being the caramel candies and the madeleines.
除了料理之外，让我非常佩服的是 Caprice 无微不至的服务 － 侍者们在点菜时的细心解释，为客人拉开椅子时的手势和表情，摆放餐具时几乎无声的优雅动作…一切都做得那么周到，圆滑。虽然不是每一道料理都令人惊艳，不过在整个环境和服务配套下，来 Caprice 用餐绝对是个享受。别犹豫，先订位再说吧！
The dishes at Caprice are refreshing, yet rich in flavor. I wasn’t wowed (like I was by a meal at Quintessence), but was happy with the experience especially at the 460~520HKD price point. Most definitely worth mentioning was the professional service – prompt, attentive, pleasant, and never intrusive. I also heard that Caprice has Hong Kong’s widest selection of artisanal cheeses and a wine list to match. I might just have to come back again.
地址：香港中环金融街 8 号，四季酒店 6 楼
价位：[午餐] 460~520 港币 + 10% / 套 [晚餐] 1000+港币
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